Avila - City Tour
Who
placed the first stone? And when?
Who knows! There is a lack of information about the historical events of the city that are only now slowly being unveiled.
The origins are lost in history. We can
play with myths and legends found in remote castros and settlements.
Ptolomeo spoke of “Obila” as the “vetona Ávila” which
means “mountain”.
Celtic "Verraco", from Jesús Sanchidrián.
Ávila Rural. "Rutas Mágicas"
What will you find today in the 21st century in this medieval
Spanish city?
When you arrive in Ávila you
will see it as if captured in a historical photograph, a still image,
but full of life.
The first thing that will surprise you and undoubtedly
fill you with awe is our defence walls. You will need time to stop and
marvel at this impressive mass of stone that surrounds the city, as if
wrapping the city in a loving
embrace. Its
2526m allow us to take a relaxed stroll around it while enjoying views
of the mountainous, rugged countryside.
In drawing near to the structure we realise just how tall it is
as it seems to touch the sky – 12m high and 3 m wide.
It was constructed rapidly between 1090 and 1099 in the
Romanesque style. |
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Gate "El Grande"
A Tour of the City
We
will begin our tour in front of one of the nine gates that open the city
to the rest of the world and walk through the narrow streets through the
bustle of people and children.
We will quickly find ourselves in front of the Cathedral – San Salvador – a true landmark of the city rising out of the forest of stone like a huge cypress tree. Ramón Otero Pedrayo, in his book “Geography of Spain”, said about the cathedral of Avila: “It is not bright and cheerful like the one of Toledo, it is not pompous like in Seville, it is not fascinating like Leon’s, it is not mystical like in Barcelona. The cathedral of Avila is strong. It doesn’t caress. It forces you to pray. In it floats the sword and the cross. It is one of the most impressive monuments of our medieval art.”
Cathedral
We can add little more about this Cathedral of Avila which is both a temple and a fortress, a cross and a sword. In it we can see a mixture of architectural styles with Romanesque in its oldest parts and Gothic in its completion and naves. You have to feel it!
Taking a breath from our tour of the city we exit the walls through the
Arch of Harina to be presented with some of Avila’s great terrace bars.
We can take
the opportunity to have a refreshing beer and wine, each of which is always
accompanied by a delicious “tapa” (snack).
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Continuing
our walk we will encounter the imposing Basilica of San Vincente which
has received much critical
praise. Two precious statues adorn the exterior of the “Pórtico" of San
Vincente blending the two styles of still and life art - and a lesson
in sculpture is the “Pórtico Meridional”, attributed to Maestro Mateo.
Once inside we will encounter the memorial to the martyrs, a
stunning example of “book-art”. Walking through the naves we tread on, with
regret, the most outstanding medieval families of Ávila.
San Vincente was one of only three sworn churches existing in
Spain. Passing through legends, martyrdom and medieval iconic sculptures we
leave the ancient “coso” de Ávila.
San Vicente Church |
Walking through the cobbled streets to “Santa Teresa Plaza” (“El Grande”), amongst the hustle and bustle of the thousands of birds, we will find a place to meet and rest in this large open square. Enclosing the huge square is the Church of San Pedro from whose towers used to announce the recently deceased.
There is more to come - the quality of art and history that we can admire in this small city seems endless. We must not forget San Andrés and its capitals with a large content of erotica, nor Our Lady of the Head, the ancient mosque and church of exorcisms, nor San Esteban, San Nicolás, Saint Tomé the Old and many more.
We must make a mention of a church that is normally outside the tourist
route. We are referring to Saint Tomás – a commemorative monument
of the taking of Granada with its cloisters, tomb stones and the palace
of the Catholic Kings.
It is the place where one of the characters of the “black legends” rests:
Torquemada.
Palace of the Catholic Kings: Saint Thomas, Avila
Ávila
of the Knights, Ávila of Teresa of Jesús, a city with a strong
character. Teresa of Ávila, a personality of writings, is referred
to by Catholicism and did much for the advancement of the Spanish language.
What did she do exactly? The answer to this and other questions can be found
in the Teresian Route. We start with the birth house of Teresa continuing
to the Monastery of Incarnation before stopping at the Monastery of the Mothers
and finally to the convent of Saint Mary of Grace.
Nuñez-Vela Palace |
We could add many other extensive paths in our search of Medieval Avila, the Romanesque Avila, Avila of the Emperors or of the Celts, a route of typical products etc. We could traverse the great quantity of palaces where famous historical characters such as Carlos V and Felipe II spent time. However, it is the palace that provides perhaps the greatest incentive to visit is the Palace of the Duchess of Valencia – the Mansion of the Eagle from the 16th century – and now the new seat of the Madrid Prado Museum in Ávila. A boastful medieval city has to demonstrate strength and power, and to put a point but not an end to our tour of the History, Art and Life of Spain. We stop to have a rest at the noble palaces of Ávila. |
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If you are looking for tranquillity but not boredom,
Art but not tiredness,
Reading but not studying,
Eating but not getting fat,
Parties but not stupidities,
Sun but not sweat,
If you are looking to learn and communicate - Ávila is awaiting you!
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Velada Palace |
